In a week normally reserved for men’s fashion, the June edition of Milan Fashion Week closed Monday with a mélange of men’s and women’s previews for next spring and summer.
President of the Italian national fashion chamber, Carlo Capasa, said the shift is a response to “the challenges posed by the globalized and fluid dimensions of fashion,” adding that the arrival of women’s collections reflects “Milan’s central importance in the fashion week world.”
Anchoring the 64 collections shown over four days was Milan calendar first-timer Stella McCartney and Finnish label Aalto for women and Armani, Fendi and No. 21 for men.
Some highlights:
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GORGEOUS GIORGIO
Some menswear brands gently pushed the gender envelop this season. There were short-shorts, of the kind worn by the protagonist in the Oscar-winning Italian film “Call Me by Your Name,” ruffled shirts (even in Gucci’s absence) and jeweled necklaces.
Not so Giorgio Armani.
He anchored the collection in the timeless, masculine double-breasted jacket — but his was no stuffy affair. More formal versions had wide-notched lapels in fabrics, while washed-out linen numbers had a softness that suggested an evening seaside stroll, while sportier iterations came in printed silk.
Armani said he aimed to democratize the formal wardrobe staple, making it “wearable, and accessible to everyone.”
Trousers were mostly wide-legged and always cuffed. Shorts fell loosely to the knee.
While Armani showed what may have been the only tie on Milan runways this season — and just one — he also sent well-toned models down…
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